Author Topic: TW6-6 Cam Installation with pictures (Read 436 times)

nomad · « **on:** December 30, 2011, 07:56:08 AM »

Note: Click on any photo in this message to enlarge.

I have planned for a quite sometime, and as many riders out there, I am so chicken to put my hands on the bike to do these tasks. Even though, I have done many researches, and spent hours to read many the instructions from many forums; watch video from JPCycles, but as always, none of them have a DETAILS instruction of how do the below work. When I say details, I've meant, please do not assume that I know what you think I do.
Anyway, the decision is made, and this is the time to do a couple of upgrades to my wonderful Ultra limited 2010.

Wrap the whole exhaust with heatshield (Click here for more details)
Replace the stock CAM with TW6-6 CAM, and SE adjustable push rods.

I will record the process in details as much as possible for a "dummy" like myself, and hopefully this will help anyone want to DIY

TW6-6 CAM Installtion

Part list

TW6-6 CAM
SE Adjustable Push Rods
Two (2) Torington Bearings
Blue Loctite
Red Loctite
Lucas , or Harley Assembly Lube ( I used Lucas).

Tools

Motorcycle, or ATV Lift
Rubber bands, and small paper clips
Extra large paper clamp (clip), so you can use the handle later
Rubber Mallet
Torque wrench
Cam locking tool
A straw
Bearing removal tool (Beaty's)
Straight edge metal ruler
Feeler
Flat screw drivers (medium, and extra large)
1/2 SAE open end wrench

Here we go

1. Bike is on the lift.

nomad · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2011, 11:56:01 PM »

I will skip the part of the exhaust removal, as if you don't know how to remove the exhaust, then you better to find someone change the CAM for you.

Continued Steps:

2. Clean around the spark plug areas, and remove both spark plugs.

3, Shift to the top gear (6th is in my case).

4. Rotate the rear wheel to get the TDC (Top Dead Center) point of the rear piston. Actually, it doesn't matter which one first. As long as you find one of the piston is at the TDC, and proceed to the next step. In this case, I set the rear piston at the highest position.
There are many ways to find the TDC, and I've found that the most used method is the "straw" method. Again, this this step is just to put the push rods in the best free play position.

5. Put a straw in the rear spark plug hole. While gently holding the straw with one hand, and rotate the rear wheel with the other hand, you will find at one position, the straw moving up to the highest position, before it goes back down. Stop rotating the wheel. and go to the other side. Don't waste too much time to find the BEST TDC, because it is not important at this time.

6. Remove the air filter cover, and the large connector on the left side.

Below is the back side of the plug, you can see that you have to press the blade, and pull to disconnect the plug from the connector.

7. Insert a flat head screw driver into the slot and pry outward. You will find how easy to remove the cover.

8. Use paper clips and rubber bands to pull both push rod jackets up to show the push rods as shown below.

nomad · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2011, 12:09:08 AM »

9. Use the bolt cutter to cut the push rods. Wiggle the bolt cutter a little bit to pull the push rod toward you to separate the cut, then remove the push rods, and all the sleeves.
The below photos are shown the process of cutting the front piston push rods, but both rear and front are the same method.

10. After remove both push rods on the rear, rotate the rear wheel to find the TDC of the front piston, and repeat step 9. You now have all the push rods removed.

Great job! It isn't hard, is it? Moving on.

11. Bend a large paper clip to the below shape (You need two (2) of them). Sharpen the both ends of the clip as shown below. It is even better, if you bend the tips upward a little bit, so they can catch the square retainer ring inside the lifters.

11. Insert the clips inside both lifters, make sure the tips catch the retainer ring on both side, and hold the lifters from falling down inside the cam area. If the lifter falls down, big deal! put it back up, and try again. Ne sweat!

nomad · « **Reply #3 on:** January 06, 2012, 04:17:15 PM »

12. unscrew all ten (10) screws that hold the cam cover as shown below. Not required in any specific order!

13. Position a small sharp, thin blade knife between the cover and the engine block as shown below, to separate the cam cover. A very light tap with a plastic, or rubber handle of a screw driver will drive the knife blade into the seal, which will be discard anyway, and separate the cam cover from sticking to the block.

and this is what you will see behind the cam cover

14. Make sure you have some kind of container to catch the oil, which will drip out from the cam block. Below is the best "invention of the century" oil drainer (dust pan) that I have invented.

nomad · « **Reply #4 on:** January 07, 2012, 05:55:22 PM »

15. Earlier, I have mentioned that finding the TDC is not important, as you can see that you many not have a perfect TDC as shown in the below photo.

16. Rotate the rear wheel to line up two dots on both rear cam sprocket and crank sprocket to the line on the cam support plate as shown below.

17. Insert the camshaft locking tool, and mark two (2) places on the cam chain and rear cam sprocket, so later, they can mate back to the original position. Remove the rear cam sprocket bolt and the crank sprocket bolt. Please notice that these two (2) bolts are not the same.

18. Remove both cam sprockets as shown below. Do not remove the cam chain at this time. Notice that I still keep all the parts line up as they suppose to be.

19. Below photo is what you see after remove the rear cam sprocket and crank sprocket. Notice that the two (2) dots on each cam shaft are lied up as shown below.
Remove the snap-clip and the washer on the right camshaft. Remove the washer (spacer) on the left camshaft. Keep all these parts in separately, so you don't confuse when doing the re-installation.

20. DO NOT REMOVE the oil pump fasteners! There are six (6) bolts that hold the cam cover; remove five (5) bolts (2,3,4,5,6). Remove one of the two cam chain tensioner bolts; loose the other bolt, and swing the cam chain tensioner out of the way, so you can remove the cam support plate bolt # 1. Re-install the cam chain tensioner bolts back to keep they safe. Inspect the plastic part for any obvious wear, replace it if necessary.

nomad · « **Reply #5 on:** January 08, 2012, 02:03:08 PM »

21. Remove the cam support plate, and remove the cam set. Below is what you'll see behind the cam support plate. Please note the two (2) o-rings (yellow arrows), and the two (2) bearings (red arrows), as they should be replaced later.

22. This step is not required, BUT I STRONGLY recommend to replace the two (2) bearings at this time; these bearings are relatively inexpensive. There several known bearing removal tools on the Internet, but I choose Gary Beatty's bearing removal tool, as his price is lower. One important thing that you need to do before using the tool as it may have some burrs. which are not removed completely. You don't want any metal particles go inside the engine. I don't know why Gary didn't take care of this problem before shipping out. The instruction that comes with the tool is not really clear, but I finally figure it out, so here they are.

Disassemble the bearing removal tool into each individual part, and clean them REAL good.
Insert the "hook" part into the bearing until it snaps to the bearing on the other side. You cannot pull it out at this time, unless you squeeze to collapse all the "teeth".
Insert the metal rod into the hollow collet with the plain end go in first, as shown below
Push the metal rod all the way in as shown below. You can use the rubber to gently tab the rod in.
Insert the long metal cup over the whole thing until it bottoms out, as shown below. The hollow end goes in first. Duh!
Insert the washer, as shown below
Screw the large nut onto the "hook" collet until it passes the "flat", as shown below
Use a wrench to secure the flat, and turn the large screw clockwise with another wrench until the bearing is retracted. It will take MANY turns, but don't worry the bearing will come off. You'll know when!
Repeat the above procedure to remove the other bearing.

23. Install new bearings as follow.
To be continued...

nomad · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2012, 01:38:01 PM »

Don't worry! I will finish the report as soon as I have some time.

I just want to share the Dyno result after the installation of the cam. It is very close to the Fuelmoto run.
The tech has discovered a problem with my bike, and I have also learned a good lesson: One of the brand-new Iridium spark plugs that I just put on, is gone bad, the tip is burnt off!
After replace the spark plugs with two new HD spark plugs, the Dyno went well as shown below. That's it! I never put a different brand spark plugs in my bike. Harley only!

I am very happy with the bike now. The mileage is very good, and I can tell the I get about 40 MPG so far.

Treasure Coast Dyno